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A Note from Louise
For almost 15 years I have worked with my treasured clients to help them source and select the perfect diamonds for their forever pieces.
I personally oversee every stone that crosses our bench and becomes a LOUISE JEAN heirloom. My years of learning, working alongside master craftspeople, and a deep commitment to quality are reflected in the beauty and brilliance our pieces are revered for.
This careful approach to sourcing gives me great pride and confidence that every diamond we select is truly exceptional - the foundation of pieces designed to be treasured for generations.
Choosing the centrepiece for your dream ring can feel overwhelming at first, but we are here to guide you through every step. My philosophy has always been that the best decisions come from understanding, which is why educating our clients about diamond grading is such an important part of what we do.
Over the years, I have personally sourced and assessed thousands of diamonds from around the world, always searching for the perfect balance of technical quality, value, and visual beauty.
The insights in this guide are drawn from that experience. My hope is that they help you feel confident, informed, and excited as you begin the journey of selecting your diamond.
With love,
Louise.
The Four C's
The 4 C’s are the globally recognised standards for assessing a diamond’s quality and beauty, helping you understand its rarity and value.
Colour
Most diamonds have a naturally occurring coloured undertone, caused by trace elements present during their formation. While diamonds can display a range of colours, the most common are yellow, brown, and grey.
Diamonds are typically graded on a D–Z scale, which indicates the depth of colour present. D represents the brightest, whitest diamonds, while Z shows the greatest depth of colour. Diamonds with less body colour are rarer and typically more valuable.
For clients seeking a ‘colourless’ diamond, we usually recommend stones graded D–F. Carefully selected diamonds graded G–I can also exhibit subtle, beautiful undertones while offering excellent value. Colour is not always uniform within certifications - there can be variance within grades, and even highly graded diamonds should always be assessed with the eye.
Diamond shape, size, and faceting style can impact the appearance of colour. Certain brilliant cut shapes like round or oval, disperse light in a way that shows colour more readily, where step-cut shapes tend to conceal body colour.
Clarity
Clarity measures the natural imperfections present in a diamond - known as inclusions when inside the stone, and blemishes when on the surface. Inclusions can range from microscopic to obvious, and some may affect the diamond’s physical integrity.
Clarity grading considers the number, size, type, location, and visibility of these imperfections. Flawless (FL) and Internally Flawless (IF) diamonds are extremely rare and command a premium.
While we source diamonds across the full grading scale, our priority is always to select stones that are eye-clean, regardless of their grading. This can only be truly assessed by examining the diamond itself with expert knowledge, not solely by the certificate.
Certain faceting styles, particularly step-cuts, have larger, open facets that make inclusions more visible. For these diamonds, it is prioritise the clarity grade is more important.
Clarity is often confused with cut and mistakenly thought to affect sparkle. In reality, a diamond’s brilliance is primarily determined by its cut, not its clarity.
Remember; you’re investing in the diamond itself, not just the certificate. While it’s important to understand clarity, we don’t want to dismiss beautiful diamonds based solely on the paperwork.
Cut
The cut of a diamond is the single most important factor in its appearance - and often the most misunderstood. Diamond cut refers to the proportions and angles of each facet, and how they interact with light. Even diamonds with excellent colour or clarity can appear dull or dark without an exceptional cut.
Cut affects a diamond’s light performance - how light travels through the stone and is returned to the eye. Diamonds with poor cut or proportions can exhibit light leakage, where brilliance is lost and the stone appears flat or lifeless.
Diamond cut cannot truly be assessed by the certificate alone. Only round diamonds have a formalised, universal cut grading; fancy shapes do not. This makes it essential to examine each diamond individually, assessing its light performance and visual impact to achieve maximum brilliance.
Elongated shapes, such as ovals or marquises, can display a bow-tie effect - a shadow across the centre of the stone. Careful evaluation ensures the bow-tie is minimised, preserving brilliance.
Our approach is to source diamonds that optimise their cut for technical precision, but more importantly, visual beauty. When it comes to cut, this is where our sourcing experience truly matters.
Carat
Carat measures the weight of a diamond, and is the way we most commonly refer to diamond size. However, each diamond is unique in its dimensions - two stones of the same carat can appear very different depending on shape, cut and proportions.
As carat weight increases, diamonds become increasingly rare and command a higher price. Different shapes and individual stones will carry their carat differently: deeper cuts may appear smaller, while more elongated stones can appear larger.
There is no right or wrong carat weight - it is entirely a matter of personal preference. When choosing a diamond, consider size, visual impact, the intended design, and how the piece will be worn.
Budget is often a factor, but we encourage you not to sacrifice quality, cut, or overall brilliance in pursuit of carat weight.
Ratio
Ratio describes a diamond’s length-to-width relationship, defining its proportions and how it sits in a piece. A lower ratio creates a fuller, more plump appearance, while a higher ratio gives a narrower, elongated shape.
For most clients, ratio is a matter of personal preference, influencing how the diamond looks within the design and on the hand. Where a specific design or matching stones are involved, we guide selection to ensure harmony and balance - otherwise, it’s about choosing what feels right for you.
Next Steps
Explore Our Live Inventory
With this understanding, browse our live online diamond inventory through our Bespoke Ring Builder. Here, filter hundreds of diamonds according to your preferences and select your own dream diamond. Our expert team is always available for advice or suggestions along the way.
Stone Sourcing
If you’d like further guidance, are seeking something unique, or wish to create a fully bespoke design, our team sources diamonds daily from a network of global suppliers. We can present small, curated selections tailored to your preferences, budget, and design - all according to our exacting quality standards. This process can be done digitally, so exceptional diamonds and designs can be created no matter where you are.
